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Getting into the swing of cycle touring again (after almost 2 years) we were enjoying exploring the cities, villages and countryside of the Castille Region, north west of Madrid until David had a cropper and broke his collar-bone. Arriving in Madrid early, we try to make the most of exploring this captivating city. |
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Saturday 2 April 2005
We flew with our bikes to Madrid via British Airways (easily the most understandable of airlines when it comes to bikes), travelled from the airport via the impressive Metro system to Charmartin Station. After a bit of a wait, we got a crowded train to Palencia.
We shared a crowded vestibule with bikes of four Belgian blokes in their thirties, re-enacting a bachelor tour of 5 years previously and traded stories and gained advice while our bikes became more and more entangled.
We got into Palencia after 9pm, found a hotel, had a fantastic meal in a small family restaurant, and then went for a bit of a stroll and checked out the impressive cathedral.
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The Cathedral in Palencia |
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Sunday 3 April 2005
Sleeping well was one feature of the pre-accident time in Spain, and keen to get some well needed rest, we always allowed ourselves to sleep until we were ready. The first morning set this trend with us finally stirring at 11am.
A quick cafe con leche and a pastry and we were ready to start and did a photo opportunity in front of the cathedral to kick the trip off and had a better look during daylight.
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We really liked the feel of Palencia and wish we had more time to spend there. Stunning buildings everywhere, and a relaxed park area along the Carrion River complete with a stress-free bike path. And not another foreign tourist to see. |
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The riverside in Palencia |
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It took a little while to hit the countryside as we worked our way south out through some satellite towns, but the roads chosen were quiet and we managed to make up some bits that kept us off the motorway.
But soon we were out more in the country. As we climbed off the floodplain at Tariego de Cerrato we came across the first cellars built into the side of the hills. Some we saw later were used to cellar wine, but these, with chimneys, we suspected were once used for grain storage. Today a few were fitted with TV aerials suggesting alternate uses.
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The cellars in Tariego de Cerrato |
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The relief in the region is characterised by an amazingly flat plateau that has been cut down in places by the rivers. Once up the top, you often can't see the valleys and the crop fields appear flat and could continue on forever. Looked a bit like Western NSW (in a good season). |
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Climbing up to the plateau |
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However, this illusion soon ended and we had a long and fast descent into Cevico de la Torre. A sleepy town with only the odd buzz of conversation coming out of a couple of bars.
Setting up in the square for some makeshift lunch (at 4pm — our body clocks being completely stuffed) we became quickly the centre of attention of every stray dog and wandering pensioner. But it was peaceful, pleasant and after filling up our bottles at the municipal tap beneath the fountain we were off again.
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Lunch in Cevico de la Torre |
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Cycling west back towards the river we watched some scary storm clouds build up and we started looking for the prospect of some shelter more and more desperately as the sky became a deeper and deeper purple. Over the flat fields, a large building, the first in 5km, showed promise until we realised it was a high security prison.
However, avoiding the cycling in a downpour option, Danielle managed to convince a skeptical guard to let us wait under a shelter near the visitors car park and we played cards while the rain fell and stared at families arriving to visit loved ones and they stared back at us; both wondering what the hell it'd be like to be in the others' shoes.
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It was now getting a bit late and fortunately the Michelin Map didn't let us down and the camping ground was just where the symbol said it was: next to a roaring motorway.
But it had a spot to camp, hot showers and a restaurant. (Probably savoured most in reverse order.) When it came to dinner we discovered the bonus of sleeping in late and being out of synch as the Spanish don't really eat until 10pm.
Walking through the bar with hams hanging amongst the tobacco smoke we ate a delicious seafood paella and some tasty roast lamb from the menu del dia. A desert, a 1 litre beer and (sacrilegiously perhaps) an eschewed after-dinner coffee for 9 Euro each - we knew we were going to enjoy our trip.
[ Continued... ] |
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Links:
CTC - This UK based cycling body are fantastic for advice about cycle touring and have loads of reports from returning tourists.
Pedalibre
: It's all in Spanish, but if you translate it something like Google, you can find out some useful and up-to-date info about cycling in Spain, especially what public transport you can take your bike on. |
